Fluidmaster 242 Toilet Fill Valve Seal Replacement Part, Fits 400A Fill Valve , Black

I was unsure if that would solve all but i did for just $2, sometimes it whistled very annoying until it started to not fill he tank and later it would not stop even tank is full!, i thought replacing whole kit or installing another brand but by replacing thi valve if fills quickly, no whistling and it stops. For instr better watch youtube but very quick and simple, just have one in hand if you got fluidmaster, in doubts replace it

The float stopped working in our guest room toilet and the water kept running. We had a plumber in a year and a half ago to readjust the float to stop the water from running. He replaced the entire unit with the Fluid Master assembly. This bathroom doesn’t get much use because we don’t get many guest; but I two months ago I started using it because it’s closer to my sewing room. I was frustrated having to lift the tank lid and tap the stopper arm so I decided I was going to fix this myself. I Googled, ‘Water Running in Toilet.’ I came across a YouTube video showing a guy holding up this small rubber valve stating this may be the reason the water wouldn’t stop running. The guy in the video said it could be a $3 valve that needed to be replaced. So, Amazon to the rescue. For less than $2 this little valve fixed the problem. All we had to do was pull off the red cap on the assembly (I’m not a plumber and don’t know the name), pull out the old valve and replace it with this bad-boy. It worked! This little rubber valve fixed a big problem. The water stops running when the tank is filled. No more lifting the tank lid to tap the top of the stopper arm.

This was a perfect fix for the symptoms we were having: pressing the flush lever didn't always initiate the tank refill. The tank would drain into the bowl, but the tank refill would be delayed. The obvious symptom was a strange silence, the kind which makes you think "hold up, something's not right". Sometimes it would delay by just a few seconds, sometimes by minutes. Gently wiggling the flush valve float was more than enough to trigger the tank refill, but leaving it alone altogether would result in random delays. It wasn't 'slow' like others have mentioned, it was simply a delayed action.I should probably preface this that I have a Fluidmaster PerforMAX valve, and I suspect the model 400A is mostly identical inside. (This replacement seal's packaging mentions the 400A, if memory serves.)Thanks to previous maintenance efforts, I already knew the whole "turn off the water supply, grab the unit below the float with your right hand, lifting the float in the process, then grab the cap unit with your left hand and twist it anticlockwise" process before I started. Plenty of videos out there, if you're unfamiliar with this.Once I had the unit's cap removed (but still loosely connected via the float linkage), the seal in question was already exposed. I was wondering whether I would need a tool (needlenose pliers or whatever) to pry the old one out. But nope! The old seal easily came out with just the slightest coaxing. I just made a mental note as to which way it was oriented (random chance will give you a 50% probability of installing it wrong, so be sure to look).Slip the old seal out, slip the new seal in, reposition the cap with the left hand, hold the flush valve unit below the float with my right, twist the cap until it locks into place (about 1/8 of a turn?), cautiously open the water supply valve while holding a hand just above the cap, in case I hadn't properly secured the cap (it would at least stop any gushing water from turning my toilet tank into a decorative fountain), then try flushing once and watch for any surprises. Flush it again, just to be sure you're not imagining that you fixed the problem.On examining the old seal, it looked like the diaphragm had become more or less permanently distended from the 'neutral' position. You'll know exactly what I'm talking about when you hold the old seal next to the new seal. It'll be one of those "oh yeah, now I see why this needs to be replaced" moments.I saw that someone else had written that replacing the seal took them 5 minutes. That's being really generous; I'd say the whole thing (not including the test flushes) took about 2 minutes. You don't need to remove the entire unit, you don't need to put a mop/bucket under the tank, you don't need to go grab your toolkit. No muss, no fuss. When you finish, you'll think "that was ridiculously easy to install".Huge credit to the engineers that designed this to be easy to replace.

I’ve had a toilet with a malfunctioning fill valve for months. Wasn’t sure what exactly the issue was, but didn’t feel like an entire fill valve replacement was necessary.The water would keep running non-stop after flushing, coming out of the top of the fill valve instead of the side tube, until I turned the water valve off. When I would turn the water back on, the water would come out of the side tube as it’s supposed to.So, after looking at troubleshooting articles online, I narrowed down the issue to the fill valve not sealing properly. Opening the top up, I noticed the seal was in 2 pieces, the larger ring had separated from the middle nubbin piece. I decided to try this, even without a return option, knowing that if it did fix the toilet, it would be a seriously cheap fix for an issue that’s been bothering me for months.Well, I am happy to report that this little piece fixed the issue! It was a broken fill valve seal. Replacing that one piece has my toilet working properly again, and I’m quite happy with a fix that cost me less than $2, and reduced the amount of parts going to the trash. If only all DIY fixes were so easy.If you have a toilet with a similar issue, I’d recommend checking your fill valve seal. This might be the only thing you need to replace!

Good repair of leaking valve in canister style Kohler toilet. No need to replace entire assembly. Six months, still shuts off properly!

I purchased this product during the summer. After reading and watching video tutorials, it was very easy to replace the fill valve seal. Excellent, cost-effective means to fix a fill valve that was slowly leaking water into the reservoir tank. However, after 5 - 6 months, the tank overflowed, again!I'm chalking it up to possibly a random defective product. I purchased this seal valve again (in fat, I bought 4, because we have three bathrooms and want readily available spares). Again, installation/replacement was very simple and easy. The seal valve is exactly like the original; the product is an authentic Fluidmaster product, which is being used in a Fluidmaster fill valve.Overall, still impressed and satisfied with the product. I feel compelled to lower the score due to the premature failure of the prior replacement. But, a $2 cost is certainly a cost effective (and time/effort effective) solution. Thus, it gets a 4.25 star score.